‘Stumbling, tumbling, wandering, travelin’ thru….... ’ Travelin’ Thru by Dolly Parton

I’m back on my rugged road again. And still wandering…

A two week visit to Ireland to attend a surprise 40^th wedding anniversary party for my parents and I had almost forgotten all about African roads, African weather, African slowness and other African things…well for a little while at least! The weather in Cork was cold and definitely not summer, but the roads were almost perfect and all the lights worked!   

It was a flying visit, my feet barely touched the ground but the time spent with family and close friends I got to see was, in the words of the great advertising heads at Mastercard, ‘Priceless’! For those I couldn't see there will be a next time for sure. All tightly packed in there was just enough time to experience a whirlwind of western everything – lunch and dinner to gobble up some of my favourite foods, bubbly that exploded with extra fizz for the occasion with the girls, the green and glorious mountains of Cork and Kerry, hugging, kissing and patting of backs, laughing and joking heartily and out loud, shopping in London on a stop-over and some damn fine chocolate! Mum and Dad had a good time too and it was a very special time to share with them. 40 years of marriage is one great achievement and although their secret seems simple, I can’t help thinking they’ve had something up their sleeves for 40 years that they haven’t been telling me about! Always make decisions together but maintain your independence. Have your own interests and your own things going on, that’s what they say. Wise words and good advice.

So while it was difficult to say goodbye once again the great thing is that they will come and visit in early January. I get to facilitate what will hopefully be a fantastic holiday and a chance for me to have family around.  Coming back to Africa I think that I am for the first time really understanding the power of family and friends and their role in our journeys no matter how far from home we are. Sometimes they are all you’ve got when you’re losing your marbles in whatever corner of the word you’re in.

 Speaking of family times, the month of Ramadan has ended and the Muslim families around me are just getting over what could be called their Christmas.  One whole month of praying and fasting and they were not the only ones relieved to see the end. Ramadan involves fasting during daylight hours and that includes no liquids. Food will only be consumed very early in the morning and late at night. Mostly everyone gets on fine at first but four weeks of this can take its toll. Not least in the sense of some heavy mood swings. I’m not sure I’d be a ball of fun either if my sugar levels were as low as theirs everyday. So, getting anything done (although never easy or fast anyway) became almost impossible and I resorted to not even asking or bothering, leaving everything until it was all over and everyone is back on form again. For the month of August each year it becomes a bit like the equivalent to the ‘silly season’ back home. Well, all things being relative of course. But, I can say that they know how to ‘party’ when it’s all over. Concert size speakers and amplifiers to wake an army 20 miles away and you’ve got the picture. The end of Ramadan and the Idd celebrations carry on night and day and the power never goes off!  The music just beats on…and on….and on. And there’s one thing you notice about music and Tanzanians.  It’s not loud enough until the volume is just at that notch where the speakers start to vibrate, the earth groans with the weight of the bass beats and you can just about make out the ‘tune’ through the distortion and buzzing! It’s no good unless it’s LOUD. And that goes for everything in public. If the TV is on, turn it up. No good if no-one can hear it! Suffice to say I am appreciative of earplugs at these times!

But it is wonderful to see the children all dressed up in their sparkly dresses and best outfits running on the streets and just having fun. The more bling the better and they are all at their happiest. Pennies are borrowed and begged for, and possibly stolen too, to pay for the new dress or big dinner for the family to celebrate and it’s a huge event for everyone. Staff ask for loans that they spend months paying back and the singing and dancing goes on for two days. It’s a national holiday and people like me get to sit back and do whatever I please for two days. Everyone wins in the end.

So now that Idd is over, routine is back and my hearing is recovering the man in Tanesco (electricity board) keeps switching the lights off. The smiles are back too and the temperature is just fabulous but still we have something to remind us of where we are!

A year of memories

I have just passed the one year mark in TZ and I am very pleased with myself! I just can’t get over how much has changed in my life and how much I have learned. I truly believe that Africa challenges you in ways you could never imagine and no matter how much you think you are going to give, or try to give, she brings things right back to you instead. This is a place where the people, their culture and ways are so dramatically different from everything that us westerners know and believe in that everything can be lost in translation and you have to delve into the deepest confines of your soul sometimes to survive.   And that’s often what it’s all about, or the only thing it’s about. Before making any changes or putting forward what could be the best idea in the world, well researched and thought out, one must first understand the obstacles. There are always plenty of those. So it is that our very survival on this continent and therefore to be of any use to anyone we must firstly learn how to do, see and think differently every minute of the day. It’s been exhausting and I am tired often. But, I make some progress at times. Funding is being received, priests are (some reluctantly) changing their ways and learning new things. And that is what I came to do. There is light!

Throughout the twelve months I have gone through more personal growth than I could ever have done at home during years of trying! Life is more about getting to tomorrow and less about what my next ‘thing’ is going to be. I don’t often use my diary anymore and don’t know from one week to the next what I’ll be doing. I have ditched the heels and have been seen in crocs…! I can also be seen sweating profusely along with the locals in the humidity and never touch make-up in the height of the hot season.  I have also become a huge believer in the angels. Spirituality is more important now and time-out crucial. I have met some amazing and special people who have become friends for life and I receive at least one invite each week from some random Tanzanian who says he’d like to be my friend!

Mostly though I see life differently now. It’s all about perspective and respect. There is a lot of racism in Africa and how you react to it and deal with it teaches you a lot about yourself. And that’s not just white to black but very much visa-versa.  I am constantly challenged to remain non-judgemental and retain my principles.

Some of the things and highlights that come to mind include:

1. arriving in Tanga and being amazed at the contrast and ‘backwardness’ of it all 20 hours after  leaving a developed London. The mud huts and driving through herds of goat, sheep and cows to what seemed like the back end of the earth came as quite a reality check

2. the sunshine and heat everyday

3. the hundreds of bicycles and the day I saw beds, mattresses, tables and then all sorts of other household things on the back of each one

4. the sheer poverty and ignorance of most of the people(from a lack of education and opportunity)

5. the corruption and the sheer obviousness of it EVERYWHERE

6. the beauty of the land

7. the frustration and moments of despair when nothing happens

The most memorable moments have been the simplest things however. Getting to a ‘real’ supermarket for the first time in months and getting my hands on dark chocolate was like all my Christmases coming together! The first time a herd of zebra just galloped past the car like horses and hearing a bush baby (v small and cute primate about the size of a squirrel that comes out at night and is exceptionally vocal!) running along the roof and not knowing what the hell was out there!  

And so to a new year of experiences and a new blog. A change is as good as a rest and I would like to continue to share this journey and adventure with you, whatever it may bring. There will always be a story and a lesson to be learned and shared. x